Rare, Limited Edition 99pt Rieslings!!

Good afternoon and good evening my thirsty wine chums!

Yes, me again… I thought I would give you the weekend to digest the big old Ceritas email that came late, at the end of last week. There’s quite a lot of super-delish-fancy stuff on there, right?

However, the reason that email was delayed, is because on the Tuesday where I normally compose such offers and put paw to key to stay in touch, I was in fact tasting some super amazing Riesling from the legendary Erni Loosen aka Dr. Loosen.

In brief - yes, really I will try to keep this one brief – he has a new set of wines to release for the first time to the Riesling lovers/collectors market, made in very limited quantities, with very special, very rare and aged Rieslings that reflect a style of German wine making (traditions) that have come an gone and been replaced by Pradikat terms (qualitative terms that reflect a superior level of wine classification and also specific attributes at each level i.e. hang time, ripeness and sweetness etc.) that have less specificity than they once did in say, the 40s, 50s and 60s. So, these wines are being called the “Tradition” range. Rieslings that are GG (Grand Cru) in quality, but that still have some residual sugar, but in line with a style that is more classical and traditional within the region. The difference between these and classic GGs are that GG’s must be bone dry in order to be classed GG – the highest quality level bestowed upon a German wine, however, these are of that level, but cannot be called GG by wine law, as they are classed as Pradikats wines (Kabinett/Spätlese/Auslese and so on.) So, they get there own bespoke release under a newly created label.

It is Erni Loosen’s thinking that these days, the Pradikat terms are broader than they once were, with a lot more residual sugar permitted and therefore less accuracy and less clarity on what it is you are actually going to get in the bottle you are opening. Climate has changed. Wine making has modernised, must weight has increased as a result and Rieslings in these classifications can end up tasting a lot sweeter than the timeless classics of a bygone era. This all came about when Erni drank a Riesling from the 40s and found it to be fresh as a daisy and basically wanted to reverse engineer how this was possible. So, “Tradition” was born and is an experiment of sorts, but based on quite a lot of research and an obsessive desire to holdback bottles that may fit the Mold of the wines from the mid-20^th Century.

So, here we have it. A trio of never before released wines, made in a unique style, that shows incredible purity, a freshness and edge for their quality/ripeness levels that most of us have never experienced, and better yet, all of which are aged already, meaning we don’t have to be patient and wait to experience them in their all signing all dancing glory – however, it must be noted that all of the wines are guaranteed to age further should you want to cellar them. I like the not being patient part, as mature or developing Riesling is a fine thing to experience, as is Riesling when it is young! But that’s why it gets drunk to quickly. Here that’s not a problem. The ageing is done for you. I can attest that these wines sing with a clarity and pitch I have rarely experienced in modern Riesling and have a fine boned quality finer than the finest China a hand can turn.

In the 3x75cl Original Wooden Case you will receive a:

• 2012 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett Tradition
• 1993 Urziger Wurzgarten Spätlese Tradition
• 2008 Whelener Sonnenuhr Auslese Tradition 

Oh, actually there is one other thing even better, the wines have been scored 97pts, 99pt and 99pts respectively from Anne Krebiehl MW. So, this is a 3x bottle box that is not messing around and is not to be missed. On top of that, aesthetically, the bottles look the part with burgundy-coloured waxed tops and gorgeous old-fashioned labels with a nod to the Prum heritage in Erni’s family lineage. These wines are tip top and well worth the purchase, whether for yourselves or for that person who has everything wine-wise. A fantastic Christmas present or present for any time of the year, especially if you are a Riesling nut! And what wine loving aficionado worth their salt isn’t a lover of the finest white grape, Riesling? Will leave the price and case name below and if you want to read past that, I leave you my notes for the amazing 99pt Spätlese and Auslese.

• Dr. Loosen Tradition Wines 3x Bottle Original Wooden Case (Multi Vintage) £310 per case

Don’t miss out on these would be my advice and speak soon if you are interested as these are being ordered and shipped direct from Loosen to arrive before Christmas. I am putting get numbers together from my supplier as I type this. There will be a couple of spare cases, but if you are interested, please shout ASAP.

Many thanks and see you or speak to you soon. I leave you with my notes, which I hope tantalize.

All the best

Jim

Notes:

1993 Urziger Wurzgarten Spätlese

Coming from uniquely volcanic soils, this Riesling, named the spice garden of Urziger unsurprisingly perfectly showcases a spicy and herby quality. I love Rieslings form here, as it is genuinely unique in the Mosel and arguably an obvious vineyard to identify. Having said that, this may well be the best example of expressing the sites characteristics, partly due to the deftly balanced residual sweetness and the age, which just highlights the purity, and maturity of the wine, whilst still coming across absolutely fresh as a daisy. At 32 years old, this is striking in its clarity on the nose and palate. Pouring a beautiful light golden colour with green hues and flashes in the light, the aromas are dried honey, manuka, pollen, saffron, dill, lime, pickle, pink peppercorns, lime pickle, turmeric and propolis. The fruits on the nose and palate are zingy passion fruit, exotic mandarin, orange blossom, tart and spicy mango powder. There is a smoky quality too, almost a note of burnt soil, the volcanic mineral rich soil shining through, lemon juice, more honey but not too sweet, fennel, green herbs and impressive salinity on the finish. The wine is intense, developing and penetrative on the palate with a fine and powerful line of acidity and veritable concentration of fruit and extract. A mature win that is tense, taught and fine boned for the style. Pure and energetic and ageing extremely gracefully for over three decades old. 99pts

2008 Wehlener Sonnenuhr

Named after the old sundial that over looks the steep sloped of the vineyard. This is all classical blue salet and some of the oldest vines in the Mosel, at around 100 years old. Arguably a favourite vineyard for me, as it just expresses such classical delicate and fine Mosel Riesling. Textbook, benchmark greatness. The term ethereal in winemaking must have been born here. Pouring almost clear, once again with flashes of green and light golden edges, a classic nose of clean fabric and blossom awaits, lanolin, spring blossom, pears, lime and wet slate. Floral notes of Iris, and perhaps subtle Jasmin mingle with freshly squeezed lemon juice. On the palate, the wine is bright and sparkles with clarity. Remarkably fine boned for a Spätlese, and obviously much drier than one might expect, residual sugars being kept the lower side, as is the style in which the wine has been made. Mineral tension struck slate, almost flint-like, limes, runny honey, peaches, mandarin, bergamot and greengage. There’s a driven energy to the wine, linear and focussed, but still gentle in its effortless way. The come herbs and a grassy quality with build into an impressively powerful and long finish, which seems to erupt from nowhere. On the tail end, there is the faintest lick of vanilla. Classic as a word in liquid form. Flirting with perfection in terms of expectations for Riesling and this plot of vines. 99pts